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You thought about it, but your fear of the comb continues to overshadow your urge to forsake the relaxer. But should it?
By: Amanda Anderson
As I quickly approach my one year anniversary as a natural, I can't even count the number of women that have approached me with a genuine desire to forsake the relaxers and rock their natural tresses. Although it's easier now to find natural hair products and plenty of support and tutorials at the hands of fabulous bloggers, there are plenty of sisters who aren't giving in because of fear. And it's not fear of social rejection or the fear of maintaining self confidence; it is the fear of the comb. But when it comes to being natural, a comb is just a small part of the equation.
Here's what you need to know about being natural and combing those relaxer free tresses:
1. You won't comb your hair as often as you did with a relaxer.
When you're rocking your natural hair, there won't be a need to comb your hair everyday. I found out early in my journey that once a week was suffice for me, and I only detangled my hair after washing. I am sure this is true for most naturals considering that our hair is kinky/curly, so combing often pretty much defeats the purpose.
2. Combing isn't painful, if you're detangling properly.
One of the biggest rules in combing natural hair is to only do it when you have conditioner on your hair. This is to help prevent breakage and to make detangling an easier and painless process.
3. Comb from the bottom up.
I'm one of the most tender headed women you'll ever meet, but believe me when I say there is a way to comb natural hair, and that's from ends to roots.
Begin at the end of your tresses, and comb upwards until you reach the roots. This eliminates breakage, pain, and any discomfort in combing through thicker, and curlier tresses.
4. Get the right comb.
Wide tooth combs were made for thicker and curlier hair. These are ideal for decreasing breakage and keeping curls uniformed. The thicker the comb, the better.
By applying all of these tips, most naturals begin to realize that going natural wasn't as difficult as they originally expected. As natural hair continues to become a more realistic option for black women, we are discovering more ways to make natural hair more manageable, one method and one product at a time.

Award winning hair stylist talks about her life as a successful business woman.
Interview By: Taren Vaughan
The world of hair care is held close to the hearts of women of all colors. But it is most definitely familiar territory for those of African American descent. And it continues to be a source of income for many sisters out here in the working world. The creativity and style that we bring can make a simple bob look like a masterpiece. Perfecting cuts and trying to please an array of customers are jobs in themselves. Owning and managing your own salon though takes hard work and dedication, not to mention an incredible amount of talent. Combine that with a passion for helping the community and taking part in the development of aspiring beauticians, and you have Rochelle Mosley. In an interview with our magazine, Mrs. Mosley talks about her journey from the runway to the salon and the many business ventures that she has taken on.
Urban Belle: Initially, you were pursuing a modeling career which took you from your hometown of Richmond, Virginia to New York City. What led you to the world of hair design?
Rochelle Mosley: Well when I graduated from high school I got my license in cosmetology as well. Hair is my first love, so it was inevitable that I would go back to making people feel and look beautiful.
Urban Belle: Salon 804 has truly made a name for itself, judging from the elite clientele that you have. What makes your salon stand out amongst the rest?
Rochelle Mosley: Salon 804's motto is serving just your style. Making everyone feel special is our passion.
Urban Belle: Seeing the success that Salon 804 has had thus far, are you thinking about opening more locations in other states in the U.S. or other cities in New York? How about international locations?
Rochelle Mosley: I would love to open more locations internationally. I know Salon 804 has a lot of knowledge and style to offer women internationally.
Urban Belle: In addition to running your salon, you also work diligently with the organization StyleWorks. Tell us more about StyleWorks. When did it start and how did the concept come about? Do you feel like the organization is making continuous progress?
Rochelle Mosley: StyleWorks started 10 years ago by Malaak Rock. This program helps women go from welfare to work. The program provides women with clothes, shoes, hair and up-keep products. They are always so appreciative! And they often bring tears to my eyes.
Urban Belle: Receiving the Golden Scissors Award and being featured on the Oprah Winfrey Show was I’m sure one of the proudest moments of your career. Are there any other moments throughout your career that you would deem as priceless, things that you could never have imagined happening?
Rochelle Mosley: Being on the Oprah show is everyone's dream. I don't know what could beat that, however I wrote a book and who knew, I did that too. I guess the sky has no limits.
Urban Belle: Hair design and modeling seem to be two things that you are most passionate about. Are there any other areas of interest that you have?
Rochelle Mosley: Well I never thought that I could be a good mother; however they say that I am! Who would have thought that! Not me at all! So never say never (Justin Bieber) and now I'm an author, I love it!
Urban Belle: Running a successful business requires a lot of time and effort on behalf of the owner(s). As a wife and mother of two children, is it ever difficult for you to balance work time with family time?
Rochelle Mosley: It is very hard! I have to be very careful in managing my time. My family is always my priority.
Urban Belle: There are so many young women out here who have the desire to start their own businesses but don’t have the knowledge about the steps to do so. What advice would you give them from your personal experience?
Rochelle Mosley: I'm happy you asked this question! I am writing a new book called Life After Beauty School, Preparing for Your Exit! This book will help answer all the questions you have about the business and life in general.
Urban Belle: If there was one quote that you would live by, something that has inspired you throughout your journey as a stylist, model or simply an African American woman striving to reach her goals, what would it be?
Rochelle Mosley: “Have a plan, have a tomorrow. If you have a tomorrow, you have a future!”
To learn more about Rochelle and her books, click here.
Natural hair newbies ponder...does one need a natural hair stylist to make natural hair fabulous?
By: Amanda Anderson
Natural hair newbies will be the first to tell anybody that one of the main reasons they recently ditched the relaxer is due to how fabulous natural hair tends to look on everyone else. While finding the beauty in someone else's texture, many have not been able to find the same kind of splendor in their own hair. Is this simply because only a certain type of natural hair is deemed fabulous? No, it's just that many have just not mastered how to style their own natural hair.
And this is when the question of rather a stylist is essential or not comes into the conversation.
I'm quite candid when the debate comes into a conversation in my own social circle, and my opinion of it does strike a chord in some. But it's not because I'm insensitive to the new journey of the natural hair newbie, it's just that after ruining my relaxed hair and having several hair stylists in the process, I finally get it:
It's better to learn how to care for and maintain your own hair.
Trust me when I say your hair will love you for it.
Truth is you don't need to pay someone else to care for your hair. Natural hair isn't the kind of lifestyle change that warrants the dependency on anyone else's knowledge of our own tresses. You, yes you, must learn to style your own hair. If you refuse, you won't stay natural for very long, considering that natural hair styles on average just don't last as long as relaxed ones.
Is that a reason to shudder? Hell no, just a reason to get on Youtube and embark on a little independence.
When we were relaxed, we needed a stylist. And that's because most of us didn't have the knowledge of how to properly administer all those terrible chemicals without ripping our scalps off. And despite that, our hair still suffered in the long run. So if that's the case, just maybe we should be a whole lot more tender with our natural hair, and make the commitment to learning how to finally learn the tactics needed to make our own hair look good.
I'm not knocking hair stylists, I do understand that they must make a living. And it doesn't hurt to get a professional trim or a little break from time to time, but the era of hair salon dependency ends (well should end) when you become natural.
I was never a hair genius, but I figured I'd better learn some things if I planned to make this lifestyle change long term. It hasn't been easy, but definitely not difficult enough for me to have given up. I'm proud to say I've learned to do my own stylin' and yeah, I feel pretty fabulous about it.
The good news is that I'm not a special case, and it's belles like myself that have encouraged some newbie somewhere to forsake the creamy crack, and work with what she has.
You too can be someone else's inspiration. You just a need a little Youtube, a good bit of patience, and a whole lot of fearlessness.
So you get rid of the chemicals and pesky relaxer...only to find split ends and fairy knots are constant. Here's how to have healthy ends without straightening.
By: Amanda Anderson
One of the main reasons I opted to go natural was so I could ultimately end up with healthy, thick, and gorgeous hair--something I haven't really had in years. Most natural sistas have made the switch from chemicals to au naturel for the very same reason, so it's quite understandable to find frustration in frequent split ends and those dreaded fairy knots.
While some suggest hair straightening and frequent trimming should nip the unfortunate incidents in the bud, I'm pretty sure I can't be the only one annoyed that hair straightening continues to be the most recommended solution to a lifestyle that is centered on no chemicals and less heat.
Annoyed and completely irritated with my hair, I became committed to finding a solution that didn't involve using any heat or some expensive "natural" hair product that cost more than it's truly worth (don't we have a lot of those?).
Here's what I discovered through a series of trial and error:
1. Split ends aren't always a result of heat damage.
I have never used heat on my hair while enduring my natural journey. No, I don't straighten, and I'm not even tempted to. And it's not that I'm a natural hair Nazi, but more so that I've ruined my hair so badly in the past that I just refuse to take any risks that could take me back to that same dark place. So if it wasn't heat that ruined my ends, well what was it?
That answer takes us to point number 2.
2. Split ends and knots can also be a result of dry hair.
I'm the moisture queen, but I made the huge mistake of believing that just because I frequently moisturized and did deep conditioning, that somehow my ends were completely taken care of. I couldn't have been more ignorant.
Turns out your ends need their very own nurturing and conditioning. Pay extra attention to your ends daily.
So what worked for me and ended my split end blues?
Every night, I lightly wet my ends and apply coconut oil. Regardless of rather I braid, twist, or bantu knot my hair; I make sure my ends are dampened with water and moisturized with oil. I use coconut oil, but any moisturizing oil such as olive, avocado, and jojoba should work just fine.
My first night of doing this simple method yielded great results the following morning. My ends didn't even look the same. You'll see a big difference quickly.
It's also important to trim your hair regularly. No, you don't have to straighten your hair to trim, as damaged ends are very noticeable aside from our curl pattern. Clip damaged ends and don't prolong your trimming. Damaged ends will always cause breakage and hinder hair growth, so pay close attention to the condition of your ends to prevent long term damage.
How to tackle that pesky dry natural hair.
By: Amanda Anderson
Q. I've been natural only for a few months, and I am trying very earnestly to not become too dependent on too many different hair products. Most natural hair products aren't very cheap, so I would hate to have to spend a lot of money to find something that will keep my hair moisturized, but I'm on the brink of going insane because my hair is always dry! I spray my hair with water a few times a day and use oils, and it's still not working. But honestly, it's inconvenient to do so. Can you please tell me how I can keep my natural hair soft and moisturized? Dry natural hair is something I can't take anymore!
- Jenna T.
A. Dry natural hair is one of the most annoying and frustrating experiences a natural can ever go through, but it is a situation that is completely curable. From your question, it's clear that you understand natural hair doesn't have to mean inconvenience or the need to spend lots of money on expensive hair products. In fact, my suggestions will save you lots of money and plenty of frustration.
1. Deep condition at least every two weeks.
Too many naturals don't utilize the goodness of a great deep conditioning. In fact, it's one of the most overlooked natural hair regimes--and that's part of the reason so many naturals have issues with dry hair.
To get the most out of your deep conditioner, you may find that you may need to add two oils (olive, jojoba, coconut, etc.) to increase the moisture. I have found that with a really great deep conditioner, you won't need to add anything. Currently, Mixed Chicks (don't be too bothered by the name, moisture is the sole purpose) Deep Conditioner is my absolute favorite. I also recommend Shea Moisture as well (affordable and amazing).
When you deep condition, you should sit under a hair dryer (with a plastic cap of course) for at least 30 minutes. Yes, 30 minutes. After sitting under the dryer, be sure to rinse your hair with cold water to close your cuticles and retain the moisture.
2. Use a great Leave In Conditioner after washing and conditioning (deep conditioning as well).
A great Leave In Conditioner can make all the difference in keeping your hair moisturized. It took me a while to find a great one, but I finally did in Giovanni Leave In Conditioner. This stuff leaves my hair super soft and moisturized. I absolutely adore it.
You can find this conditioner at Target and Whole Foods, with some finding it in various grocery and drug stores.
3. Make use of your oils.
Although my deep conditioning and leave in keeps my hair pretty moisturized, a couple times a week, I put a little oil in my hair before sleeping. Now of course you won't need much and it won't need to be everyday, but two times a week should do you justice.
Oiling your hair a couple times a week will surely keep your hair moisturized. Doing so before bed is key to stretching out your conditioner.
4. Keep product use simple.
A dependency on too many different hair products will surely leave your natural hair stressed and dry. Why? Simply because it doesn't need all of that. One of the reasons I love being natural is because it's so cost efficient, but you wouldn't know that if you listened to all the natural hair "gurus."
I only use a few products, and my hair is happy and affordable.
5. Overnight maintenance.
Cotton absorbs moisture, so it would be wise to use a satin pillow case or bonnet to protect your hair overnight. Satin retains moisture and prevents breakage.
Try these methods, and you won't need your spray bottle on a daily basis, I know I don't.
Natural hair is...well just read the article.
By: Amanda Anderson
There's a false perpetration of natural hair that is causing the demise of many new naturals. Seems like natural hair has gotten the reputation of easy, convenient, and even so simple as wash and go.
And the other side of the argument paints natural hair in a totally different light. To these people, natural hair is hard, difficult, frustrating, and too time consuming, It is this image that keeps many sisters from forsaking relaxers, and too damn terrified to let new growth be anything more than just a cue to head to the beauty salon.
Although these polarizing descriptions of natural hair have some truths, neither is the whole truth. But both sides must be addressed so women can better understand natural hair, and then just maybe we can start making better decisions on rather we should even take the plunge, or stick to the creamy crack.
Here's the truth about natural hair.
Natural hair requires a learning curve. If you're not willing to learn, you don't need to go natural.
I'll be the realist here and tell you that I didn't expect natural hair to be easy nor hard. My sister took the plunge before me, and I watched her learn how to properly take care of her natural texture. She put in a lot of time researching products, learning different styling methods, and exploring the uniqueness of her texture. Seeing this firsthand let me know that this wouldn't be easy, but it wasn't hard either, only because I observed that learning is the one thing that separates the frustrated naturals from the happy naturals.
You have to approach natural hair like a course because that is exactly what it is. You will always learn more about your hair, and the more you learn, the more manageable it becomes.
You have to learn how to do your own hair, or you won't be natural for long.
Why do you think there are so many natural hair tutorials on YouTube?
It's not because people have nothing better to do. It's because you will be your own hairstylist the majority of your time as a natural. Yes, you will have to learn how to twist and braid your own hair. You'll have to learn the good products from the bad. And you will have to learn patience, since it takes plenty of it to get the hang of all of these things. If styling your hair is still difficult after watching tutorials, natural hair just may not be for you.
If you need a hair stylist, you'd be better off with a relaxer.
Wash and Go's aren't enough, so learn multiple styles.
Wash and Go's are better suited for tiny fros, than longer tresses. So expect to do some work, and get accustomed to actually styling your hair. If you get used to this early, natural hair will be easier to manage.
Maintenance is a must.
There's a rumor that natural hair doesn't require much maintenance...that is a lie.
As a natural, you will have to detangle, deep condition, moisturize, style, protect, and more. This isn't a care free lifestyle. You may not need to go to a hair salon every 6 weeks, but you will have to take care of your hair daily to keep it healthy.
Be your own inspiration.
There may be many natural hair bloggers and Youtubers, but you're going to be your biggest teacher. And since that's the case, you should also be your biggest inspiration. Love your own hair, and set your own hair goals. When we aspire to be like others or have hair like others, we're always let down. Love being a natural for your own reasons, because there will be many that see this as a trend, and they won't last long. Don't allow yourself to get disappointed, when you can see the beauty in your own hair.
So is natural hair hard, or is it easy? How about neither. It requires work, but it isn't impossible to conquer. I've learned that it's always best to have patience, and healthy hair is more important than anything else. Focus on keeping your hair healthy, and over time, natural hair won't be a burden, but one of the best decisions you've ever made.
Protective styles are cool, but what about those of us who don't want to rock them all winter long? Hair hibernation is totally unnecessary.
By: Amanda Anderson
As a natural, I'm sure you hear a lot about the importance of wearing protective styles. You know that according to most naturals, it's healthier to keep your hair in braids, twists, wigs, weaves, and even straight to protect your hair from the colder months...or so you've been told. Now to most, it's not a hindrance to keep your hair in any of these styles in the months when snow and harsh wind is the norm. However, if you're anything like me, you prefer to wear your hair out, rather than tuck your hair away in some protective style all winter. I mean why does being natural always have to be so damn complicated? And from the reads of these natural hair blogs, it's no wonder so many women are truly terrified to forsake the creamy crack...we've made being natural a chore when it really is a luxury.
And now we can't wear our natural hair out in the Winter? Who the hell made these rules?
But don't fret, I don't wear my natural hair in protective styles in the Winter. Why? Because I don't want to and really don't have to. I take good care of my hair daily, and so despite the season, I can wear it out, and it will still be vibrant and healthy.
For one thing, I deep condition my hair weekly. In fact, every time I wash my hair (which is seven days), I deep condition it right after. Deep conditioning keeps my hair from getting dry and keeps moisture in my hair for days without needing any additional moisturizer. Before I used to deep condition, I had to literally spray my hair with water and use oil daily. Before, I thought this was normal, but now I realize my hair was just severely dry before I began deep conditioning. Now that I do deep condition every week, I no longer need to hydrate my hair and apply oil daily anymore. In addition to the deep conditioning, I also use a leave in right after for styling and additional moisture. This increase in moisture makes it safe for me to wear my hair out in the colder months. And that's because my hair contains lots of moisture from the deep conditioning and leave in conditioner I used right after.
I'm also not a product junkie. The problem with most naturals is they rely on a series of products to define curls, moisturize, strengthen, shine, protect...you see where I am going with this. Too many products can dry out hair, and keep you washing your hair more than you need to. If this is the case, it's no wonder so many naturals rely on protective styles to get through the colder months, hell they need to. The truth is, no one needs that many products. Find a few that work, and stick with them.
I can also say that I am not a wash and go person, and never have been. And because of that, I learned how to perfect styling on dry hair. Yes, dry hair. For me, dry hair is best for styling because it gives me that big hair that I love, and the length that I truly appreciate. Wet hair causes shrinkage, yet so many naturals will only style on wet hair. I hate shrinkage, so I don't style wet hair. And I also don't have to walk out of the house with wet or damp hair when it's cold. Neither do you.
Another reason my hair will be out in the winter is because I always prep my hair before sleeping. I put my hair in big twists or braids to keep it from tangling. On a lazy night, I use the pig tail method, which also keeps my hair in shape while preventing overnight tangles. A silk bonnet sustains the moisture.
Because I do all of these things, I don't have to "protect" my hair in the winter months. Weekly deep conditioning, leave in conditioning, and overnight care keeps my hair pretty damn healthy. I don't straighten my hair either, and that's just my preference, as I'm more interested in preserving my natural curl pattern.
And I'm pretty sure it's all of these things that I do and don't do that makes protective styles more so of a topic I will write about before I apply them to my own regime. If you still want a break from your natural hair and want to rock a protective style, by all means, do so. But just know that in the natural world of versatility, you most certainly do not have to.
Sometimes moisture is just a great deep conditioning away.
By: Amanda Anderson
So you've ditched that treacherous relaxer, and have chosen to rock your natural texture. It's an amazing journey to embark on the natural hair lifestyle, but for those of us who have been at it for a while, there's moments when it just gets difficult to manage hair we're just getting used to. We may spend most of our time trying to define our curls and maintain healthy hair growth, but if it's one issue we will battle with most of our journey through a series of hair products, it's maintaining moisture. Our hair isn't happy dry, and it's isn't necessarily easy to keep your hair moisturized when you're using at least 5 different products to style your tresses.
As I mentioned before, water and oils, as well as cream based moisturizers can be essential to maintaining moisture. But depending on what products you use, this particular regime alone is not enough to conquer dryness once and for all.
So what's a natural diva to do when moisture continue to fleet her despite a nasty product addiction?
Simple. Start deep conditioning.
Now I know you may want to scream that you've tried this already, but I can reassure you that method is everything. If you are deep conditioning and still tackling dry hair, here are some tips to make your deep conditioner more effective and keep your hair moisturized.
1. Give your conditioner a little boost.
Your conditioner may be pretty amazing, but maybe it doesn't keep your hair as moisturized as you need it to. It may seem logical to shop around for a new conditioner, but the simplest and cheapest way to fix this issue is to simply add a tablespoon of olive oil and honey to the product. Mix these ingredients in well, and you'll notice a huge difference in your conditioner.
2. Make sure you are sitting under the dryer for at least 30 minutes.
Who doesn't hate sitting under a dryer?
It's one of the least liked beauty prep methods, but the dryer is essential to getting the most moisture out of your deep conditioner. Remember to use a plastic cap to seal in the moisture during this step.
3. Rinse your hair with cold water instead of warm.
Rinsing with cold water isn't fun, but it works wonders for moisture. This is simply because cold water closes cuticles, and you want your cuticles closed after deep conditioning to maintain the moisture from the conditioner.
4. After rinsing, be sure to use a great leave in conditioner.
A leave in conditioner can prolong the benefits of deep conditioning. Be sure your leave in is light, moisturizing, and able to use in styling. The combination of a leave in conditioner and a deep conditioner should leave your hair moisturized at least a full week.
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