Soraya Mathias Blog

As I quickly approach my one year anniversary as a natural, I can't even count the number of women that have approached me with a genuine desire to forsake the relaxers and rock their natural tresses. Although it's easier now to find natural hair products and plenty of support and tutorials at the hands of fabulous bloggers, there are plenty of sisters who aren't giving in because of fear. And it's not fear of social rejection or the fear of maintaining self confidence; it is the fear of the comb. But when it comes to being natural, a comb is just a small part of the equation.

Here's what you need to know about being natural and combing those relaxer free tresses:

1. You won't comb your hair as often as you did with a relaxer.

When you're rocking your natural hair, there won't be a need to comb your hair everyday. I found out early in my journey that once a week was suffice for me, and I only detangled my hair after washing. I am sure this is true for most naturals considering that our hair is kinky/curly, so combing often pretty much defeats the purpose.

2. Combing isn't painful, if you're detangling properly.

One of the biggest rules in combing natural hair is to only do it when you have conditioner on your hair. This is to help prevent breakage and to make detangling an easier and painless process.

3. Comb from the bottom up.

I'm one of the most tender headed women you'll ever meet, but believe me when I say there is a way to comb natural hair, and that's from ends to roots.

Begin at the end of your tresses, and comb upwards until you reach the roots. This eliminates breakage, pain, and any discomfort in combing through thicker, and curlier tresses.

4. Get the right comb.

Wide tooth combs were made for thicker and curlier hair. These are ideal for decreasing breakage and keeping curls uniformed. The thicker the comb, the better.





By applying all of these tips, most naturals begin to realize that going natural wasn't as difficult as they originally expected. As natural hair continues to become a more realistic option for black women, we are discovering more ways to make natural hair more manageable, one method and one product at a time.

The world of hair care is held close to the hearts of women of all colors. But it is most definitely familiar territory for those of African American descent. And it continues to be a source of income for many sisters out here in the working world. The creativity and style that we bring can make a simple bob look like a masterpiece. Perfecting cuts and trying to please an array of customers are jobs in themselves. Owning and managing your own salon though takes hard work and dedication, not to mention an incredible amount of talent. Combine that with a passion for helping the community and taking part in the development of aspiring beauticians, and you have Rochelle Mosley. In an interview with our magazine, Mrs. Mosley talks about her journey from the runway to the salon and the many business ventures that she has taken on.



Urban Belle: Initially, you were pursuing a modeling career which took you from your hometown of Richmond, Virginia to New York City. What led you to the world of hair design?



Rochelle Mosley: Well when I graduated from high school I got my license in cosmetology as well. Hair is my first love, so it was inevitable that I would go back to making people feel and look beautiful.



Urban Belle: Salon 804 has truly made a name for itself, judging from the elite clientele that you have. What makes your salon stand out amongst the rest?



Rochelle Mosley: Salon 804's motto is serving just your style. Making everyone feel special is our passion.



Urban Belle: Seeing the success that Salon 804 has had thus far, are you thinking about opening more locations in other states in the U.S. or other cities in New York? How about international locations?



Rochelle Mosley: I would love to open more locations internationally. I know Salon 804 has a lot of knowledge and style to offer women internationally.



Urban Belle: In addition to running your salon, you also work diligently with the organization StyleWorks. Tell us more about StyleWorks. When did it start and how did the concept come about? Do you feel like the organization is making continuous progress?



Rochelle Mosley: StyleWorks started 10 years ago by Malaak Rock. This program helps women go from welfare to work. The program provides women with clothes, shoes, hair and up-keep products. They are always so appreciative! And they often bring tears to my eyes.



Urban Belle: Receiving the Golden Scissors Award and being featured on the Oprah Winfrey Show was I’m sure one of the proudest moments of your career. Are there any other moments throughout your career that you would deem as priceless, things that you could never have imagined happening?



Rochelle Mosley: Being on the Oprah show is everyone's dream. I don't know what could beat that, however I wrote a book and who knew, I did that too. I guess the sky has no limits.



Urban Belle: Hair design and modeling seem to be two things that you are most passionate about. Are there any other areas of interest that you have?



Rochelle Mosley: Well I never thought that I could be a good mother; however they say that I am! Who would have thought that! Not me at all! So never say never (Justin Bieber) and now I'm an author, I love it!



Urban Belle: Running a successful business requires a lot of time and effort on behalf of the owner(s). As a wife and mother of two children, is it ever difficult for you to balance work time with family time?



Rochelle Mosley: It is very hard! I have to be very careful in managing my time. My family is always my priority.



Urban Belle: There are so many young women out here who have the desire to start their own businesses but don’t have the knowledge about the steps to do so. What advice would you give them from your personal experience?



Rochelle Mosley: I'm happy you asked this question! I am writing a new book called Life After Beauty School, Preparing for Your Exit! This book will help answer all the questions you have about the business and life in general.



Urban Belle: If there was one quote that you would live by, something that has inspired you throughout your journey as a stylist, model or simply an African American woman striving to reach her goals, what would it be?



Rochelle Mosley: “Have a plan, have a tomorrow. If you have a tomorrow, you have a future!”



To learn more about Rochelle and her books, click here.

Natural hair newbies will be the first to tell anybody that one of the main reasons they recently ditched the relaxer is due to how fabulous natural hair tends to look on everyone else. While finding the beauty in someone else's texture, many have not been able to find the same kind of splendor in their own hair. Is this simply because only a certain type of natural hair is deemed fabulous? No, it's just that many have just not mastered how to style their own natural hair.

And this is when the question of rather a stylist is essential or not comes into the conversation.

I'm quite candid when the debate comes into a conversation in my own social circle, and my opinion of it does strike a chord in some. But it's not because I'm insensitive to the new journey of the natural hair newbie, it's just that after ruining my relaxed hair and having several hair stylists in the process, I finally get it:

It's better to learn how to care for and maintain your own hair.

Trust me when I say your hair will love you for it.

Truth is you don't need to pay someone else to care for your hair. Natural hair isn't the kind of lifestyle change that warrants the dependency on anyone else's knowledge of our own tresses. You, yes you, must learn to style your own hair. If you refuse, you won't stay natural for very long, considering that natural hair styles on average just don't last as long as relaxed ones.

Is that a reason to shudder? Hell no, just a reason to get on Youtube and embark on a little independence.

When we were relaxed, we needed a stylist. And that's because most of us didn't have the knowledge of how to properly administer all those terrible chemicals without ripping our scalps off. And despite that, our hair still suffered in the long run. So if that's the case, just maybe we should be a whole lot more tender with our natural hair, and make the commitment to learning how to finally learn the tactics needed to make our own hair look good.

I'm not knocking hair stylists, I do understand that they must make a living. And it doesn't hurt to get a professional trim or a little break from time to time, but the era of hair salon dependency ends (well should end) when you become natural.

I was never a hair genius, but I figured I'd better learn some things if I planned to make this lifestyle change long term. It hasn't been easy, but definitely not difficult enough for me to have given up. I'm proud to say I've learned to do my own stylin' and yeah, I feel pretty fabulous about it.

The good news is that I'm not a special case, and it's belles like myself that have encouraged some newbie somewhere to forsake the creamy crack, and work with what she has.

You too can be someone else's inspiration. You just a need a little Youtube, a good bit of patience, and a whole lot of fearlessness.

It's no secret that natural hair requires a lot of care, attention, and detail every single month of the year. But as the seasons change, we may also wish to make a few slight changes to our hair care regime in order to keep our natural hair healthy, happy, and even growing despite the cold weather. Now this isn't about how big of a product junkie you are or how many products you have not managed to add to your stash of hair essentials; but it is about great hair care in the winter months. And this all boils down to how much you understand your hair, and making sure you nurture it to prevent breakage and even ruining your curl pattern. So put your wallet away, and keep in mind the following in order to keep your hair healthy, satisfied, and gorgeous despite the harshness of the colder months.



1. Understand the basics of moisture. Dry hair leads to dead hair...and ultimately breakage.


Depending on your individual hair type, dryness can be a huge pain in your hair regime, and even make natural hair harder to manage than it needs to be. For one thing, not only does dry hair not feel too good between your fingers, but it also doesn't look good. It's important that naturals remember that dryness not only causes breakage, but it causes frizziness and undefined curl patterns. It's a sure way to a bad hair day.


So how do you tackle dry hair without spending a fortune?

It's easy. Just go back to the basics.

Water is the first step to moisture for every natural. Even if you've managed to find an amazing moisturizer to aid you in your dry hair blues, a closer inspection of the ingredients will reveal that your favorite hair product is water based. And that's no coincidence.

Water is not only hydrating to the hair, it is also a moisturizer. To moisturize your hair and keep it moisturized, you'll need to add water to your routine. A spray bottle should be your best friend in styling and moisturizing, so be sure to always hydrate your hair daily.

Now water alone will not be successful in eliminating dryness, since as soon as the water evaporates, your hair will become dry. In order to prevent this setback, you'll need to seal in the moisture of the water. Do this by using oils. The best two oils for moisture are coconut oil and olive oil.

Depending on your hair type, water and oil will be enough to maintain moisture. But for some of us (me included) it won't do.

If you try water and oil and still end up with dry hair, you will need to add a cream (and water) based moisturizer or leave in conditioner to the water and oil method. Apply the water first with the spray bottle, then the oil, and then seal in the moisture a final time with a moisturizer cream or leave in conditioner.

I suggest:

Conditioner: Oyin Handmade Honey Hemp Conditioner

Moisturizer Cream: Oyin Handmade Whipped Pudding
                            

2. Protect your hair while sleeping.

Things are a little different as a natural. That good old cotton pillow may feel great against your skin, but it's a nightmare to your hair. The pillow alone will absorb all other moisture you've managed to maintain. Satin is one of the only materials that won't absorb your moisture, but actually preserve it. To keep your hair moisturized overnight, wear a satin cap or use a satin pillowcase.


3. Don't forget to deep condition.

Cowashes are good, but they can't do what a deep condition can do for your hair. The colder months will be harsher on your hair, so you should incorporate a deep condition in your regime at least once a month.

I suggest:

SheaMoisture Deep Treatment Masque


4. Utilize protective hair styles.

A lot of naturals rely on protective styles to get them through the colder months. These styles include braids, weaves, wigs, buns and twists. With these particular styles, your natural hair will no longer have to be exposed to the cold, rain, or snow. They also require low hair manipulation, and encourage hair growth.


If you're not ready to rock protective styles and prefer to wear braid outs and twist outs, make sure that you are maintaining your hair daily. Re-twist or re-braid your hair each night to prevent tangling and breakage. Also be sure to moisturize your braids and twists thoroughly. It's not good to sleep with your hair out in these particular hairstyles.



5. Don't become dependent on heat.

Some naturals believe the colder months call for straight hair, but wearing your natural hair straight isn't all that healthy.

Heat is not your friend as a natural, and should only be used a few times a year. Too much heat can permanently ruin your curl pattern, and even cause breakage if it's not properly maintained. If you do choose to straighten your hair, rely on a blow dryer (not a Dominican blow out!), roller sets, and ceramic iron. Be sure to use a heat protectant thoroughly before straightening with the methods that incorporate heat.

6. Trim and detangle.

Raggedy ends will lead to raggedy hair. If you notice your ends are looking shabby, go ahead and clip them. This will prevent future breakage.

Detangling is imperative in every natural's hair care regime. Always detangle your hair wet and after conditioning, and be sure to repeat at least once more each month.




Healthy hair maintenance should occur all year long, but the colder months are always harder on natural hair than the warmer months. Moisture is imperative to get through this season, while protective styles are essential in encouraging hair growth during the seasons. Make sure you are detangling your hair at least twice a month, and keeping your ends trimmed to keep your hair in a growing state.

Natural hair is a fabulous thing, but to get the most out of your hair, you'll need to learn your hair type, and choose products and hairstyles that work for your particular curl pattern. For the newly natural, it can be a confusing ordeal to learn your hair type, but once discovered, it can make your life as a natural diva fairly easier. There are several hair types of natural hair, and all are classified by curl pattern and texture.

This type system was created by hair stylist to the stars, Andre Walker, but I suggest you don't get too obsessed with this system or your particular hair type.


Here are the types of natural hair.


Type 4





Type 4 hair is considered kinky hair. This particular hair type is tightly coiled and extremely delicate. It requires lots of care, and is known to lack in shine, even though it may be in a healthy state, but it does have a natural sheen. This kind of hair is usually soft, and fine by nature.

Although described as kinky, do not be mistaken, as this hair type has curls. These particular curls are very tight, and require much attention. The majority of African American women have this hair type, or at least some patches of it.

The are two subtypes of type 4 hair: A and B.

4A hair is tightly coiled. When stretched, it has a S pattern, which is very resembling of curly hair. 4B hair is less defined than 4A hair, and resembles a Z when it is stretched. It doesn't bend or actually curl in traditional forms, but instead bends in very sharp angles similar to the letter Z. It also has less moisture than 4A hair, hence, it has a more wire like texture.



Type 3





With this particular hair type, when wet, it will appear straight. Once the hair dries, a curl pattern will become visible. Humidity seems to make this kind of hair curlier, and in most cases, frizzier. When it comes to body, this hair has lots of it, and tends to be pretty easy to style. It can even be easily straightened with a blow drier; and is shiny, with small curls and plenty of elasticity.

This hair type has three subtypes. 3A type hair is very loosely curled, and usually shiny with bigger curls. Length is a factor in its curl definition, as shorter hair tends to be straighter, and long hair tends to have a tighter curl pattern. 3B type hair has medium sized curls to tight corkscrews. It is usual to see a mixture of both in one head full of hair. 3C is the final subtype, which is usually described as tight curls in corkscrews. These curls can be tightly curled or kinky.



Type 2





This type of hair is described as the more wavy hair type, and usually has a definite s shaped pattern. It also has three subtypes, with 2A usually described as easy to manage. It can be straightened with a blow dryer relatively easy. Types 2B and 2C are harder to style and tend to frizz a lot easier than 2A hair.




Caring For Your Hair Type


Every hair type has different needs. When selecting a product, keep a couple things in mind.

Type 4

If you're a type 4, you're looking for moisture and curl definition. Any product you select, should help with either or both. If not, you're wasting some serious money.


For Moisture, I suggest the following products:

Oyin Handmade Whipped Pudding
Organic Jojoba Oil
Carol's Daughter Healthy Hair Butter
Shea Terra Certified Organic Shea Butter
Water


Tip: Look for products that contain glycerin, honey, shea butter, and propylene glycol. Some naturals have even created their own mixture of oils and water to create the perfect moisturizer. Try water and coconut oil if  you're on a budget.


For Curl Definition, I recommend:

Oyin Handmade Style & Define
Eco Styler Gel with Olive Oil (Use an additional moisturizer)
IC Fantasia Gel (Use an additional moisturizer)
Kinky-Curly Curling Custard
Beauty Blended Curl Styling Butter


Type 3

If you're a type 3, you'll need to focus on tackling dryness and frizziness. So you'll need products that moisturize, as well as products that manage friziness.


For moisture, I recommend:

Oyin Handmade Frank Juice
Oyin Handmade Honey Wash
Oyin Handmade Honey Hemp Conditioner
Carol's Daughter Hair Milk
Kinky-Curly Curling Custard
Curl Junkie Coffe-Coco Cream

For frizziness, I recommend:

Blended Beauty Curly Frizz Pudding
CURLS Curl Souflle


Type 2

If you're a type 2, you'll need to tackle frizziness, as it will be your greatest obstacle.

I recommend:







While it's good to know about your hair texture and type, it's definitely not an issue for you to obsess over. The reality is, we all have a combination of different hair textures, and we all have unique hair in some shape or form. No hair type is better than the other, since every hair type is God given.

Personally, I'm not big on the hair type method, but I do think it's important to learn what your hair likes and despises product wise. When you learn about your hair, it's easier to find products and ingredients that will work. I'm a type 4, and my hair loves moisture. Moisture alone will define my curls, so I seek products that have lots of moisture. To lock in the definition, a light gel works well for me. Some need expensive products to get the results they desire, while others do not. Trial and error will be your very best friend when it comes to natural hair.

Since giving up the creamy crack permanently over a year ago, my addiction to finding the perfect hair stylist has been replaced by finding the perfect natural hair products. Although there has been a lovely increase in the selection of products, great products become harder to fall in love with due to steep prices. As a natural diva, I'm always in the search for a line of products that not only defines my natural curls, but retains moisture, and keeps my hair soft to the touch. I have found a head of luscious curls, with loads of moisture, and practicality in Oyin Handmade. I can't say I've tried every single Oyin Handmade product, but here's my review on the products I've given a go.


1. Honey Wash


When you give up the relaxers, it's not as simple as picking up any shampoo and using it on your hair anymore. Now you really have to find a shampoo that will not work against natural hair, and one that is also all natural. Chemicals don't stop at relaxers, so always be careful and pay attention to labels when looking for hair products.

Honey Wash is the all natural shampoo and body wash which is supposed to add loads of moisture to natural hair and dry skin. Made with gentle and all natural castille soap, aloe. and honey; this product by far is one of my favorite shampoos period.

I used this shampoo in the shower, washed and rinsed twice, and my hair absolutely loved it. It was softer than it's ever been, and the moisture gave my hair life upon washing. I'm sure the Honey Wash is so amazing because of the healthy amounts of aloe and honey.

My skin was also silky and sexy after using this product as a body wash.


Verdict: I recommend and I know you will love it.



2. Honey Hemp Conditioner


Just like it's Honey Wash counterpart, expect loads of moisture and luscious curls after using this conditioner. This product contains honey, coconut oil, vera gel, and water; and it's more effective when used with the honey wash. If you can't do both, the conditioner will still do a great job giving your hair some moisture alone when used as a Co-Wash.


Verdict: I recommend and I know you will love it.


3. Whipped Pudding

The smell will probably have you in a love sick trance, but trust me when I say the best thing about this product is not the smell, but what it can do for your hair. Made from shea and aloe cream, this daily moisturizer is so amazing to your hair that you won't even need to use it daily. I used it at the beginning of the week, and I didn't need it again until after washing.

And since the product is long lasting, you won't need to use too much of it. Your hair will love this stuff, and you'll appreciate all the moisture. Just like the Honey Hemp Wash, the Whipped Pudding is also great for relieving dry skin.

Verdict: I recommend it and I know you will love it.


4. Shine & Define

This product is my absolute favorite our of the whole line. Every natural belle needs a great styling product that won't dry out her hair. And trust me when I say that is very hard to find.

With Shine & Define, my curls were defined and absolutely breath taking. I didn't need a whole lot of it either to get the dramatic curls I was looking for. And unlike most products, my hair wasn't dry after a day or so of use.

To get the most out of this product, use it with the Whipped Pudding. When you use both, you'll have a whole head of luscious and fabulous curls.

Verdict: I can't live without it and I recommend it.


5. Greg Juice

Greg Juice is a herbal leave in moisturizing spray that I just have to recommend to all of my natural belles looking for a quick way to moisturize their hair.

I spray my hair with this leave in spray, and my hair stays moisturized for the remainder of the week. My hair is soft beyond all understanding and I love it.

Verdict: I recommend it and I know you will love it.




I can't even explain any further how much I love this line of natural hair products. My hair is softer than ever, and my curls stay defined for days at a time. And that's rare when it comes to most hair products. Best of all, Oyin Handmade won't ruin your budget. While most natural hair products will cost you about $30 a product, Oyin Handmade costs about $6-$20 depending on the product and size. But you will find that you won't need a whole lot of product during use to get amazing results, and that's how I know this product line is in a league of it's own.

If you're looking for a great line of products that will leave your hair soft and your curls defined, try Oyin Handmade and let me know if you have fallen in love like I have.

You're new to the natural sisterhood, and I'll admit, while it's a fabulous thing to be a newly natural, it can also be quite scary if you are one of the many uninformed. I was lucky to have an older sister experience the natural journey before I myself decided to take the plunge, but we all aren't so lucky to have a close sibling to make mistakes on our newly natural behalves. While there is a wealth of information on the internet for newly naturals, transitioning divas, and natural tressed geniuses; we all can't deny that it is still a process that we must endure to get adjusted to our natural tresses, especially when all we've ever really known was the creamy crack.

Since more and more sisters are forsaking the relaxers for the beautiful side of au naturale, here are the essentials you'll need to make things a lot smoother.

Your Lifeline

1. The Denman Brush



This little baby will come in use when you need to detangle your wet hair. Remember, never detangle natural hair while it's dry! And as always, start from the ends when detangling your hair.

You can usually find theses brushes in beauty supply shops and some major drug stores. Goody is a well known manufactorer of these brushes.

2. The Spray Bottle



When you're doing most of your hairstyles, you'll need a little water to add moisture to your hair. A great spray bottle will give you the light mist you need to keep your hair hydrated during styling.

3. Satin Bonnet or Scarf

You'll need a satin bonnet or scarf to lock moisture in your hair at night, and to prevent matting while sleeping. Satin pillow cases are great too for retaining moisture.

4. A Great Moisturizer



Shea butter is amazing for keeping natural hair moisturized. But if you're looking for a product, I use Miss Jessie's Buttercreme. I use a healthy dab of it in the morning, and my hair stays moisturized throughout the day.


The Best Hairstyles for Newly Naturals


1. The Braid Out



By far, this is one of the easiest hairstyles for natural belles. Since I didn't do the big chop and opted to transition instead, when I finally decided to chop off my relaxed ends after one year of no relaxer, I had some length to tackle as a newly natural. I wanted a hairstyle that would allow me to wear my big hair and demonstrate that I had some length, so twist outs weren't the best option for me. And I say that because although I had some length, I still needed to stretch my hair out a little. Twist outs shrink the hair, while braid outs stretch the hair.

My sister recommended braid outs, and I must say, it's one of the two hairstyles that I have come to rely on while i get used to this natural thing.

To achieve the braid out, you'll need some patience and the ability to braid. I usually take a spray bottle of water, with a dab of Miss Jessies, and braid my hair into about 10 plaits. While there is no right or wrong number of braids, I just found this amount to work well for me.

I usually wear my braids overnight, and take them out gently the following morning. I can wear this hairstyle for a week, and wear a scarf around the edges to protect it at night.

This video goes in more detail.



I don't use a roller at the end of my hair, but instead braid it to the end. You can do either with natural hair.


2. The Afro Puff



This style is even better after you've worn a braid out for a couple days, but it looks great even if you haven't. All you need is your trusty spray bottle to wet the edges of your hair. Gently pull back your hair, and secure your puff with a stretchy headband. Now it is a little difficult to explain how to use the headband, but this video explains it perfectly and helped me achieve the perfect afro puff.



The puff is also a great hair style for rainy days.


3. The Twist Out



Similar to the braid out (but a lot easier), the twist out achieves the curly and defined big hair look you'll love. It's relatively easy to do two strand twists, and a lot easier on your hands than braids. As usual, you'll need your spray bottle, moisturizer, and the ability to twist.

To twist your hair, you will simply need to take two strands of hair, and twist one on top of the other, until you have completely twisted the strand of hair. Wear the twists overnight (or longer for more curl definition) and take them out.

This video explains the process in detail.





While these are my favorite hairstyles for newly naturals (and the easiest in my opinion), there are many more hairstyles that are pretty great for those getting adjusted to natural curls. Those who have a skill in braiding should find many beautiful styles that they can make use of.



Natural Hair Maintenance

Natural hair is not relaxed hair, so it requires a different level of maintenance.

1. Detangling: You do not and should not comb natural hair every day. Twice a month is reasonable, with some naturals who detangle weekly. I find that my hair can go two weeks without detangling.

Remember that you only detangle natural hair when it is wet! This prevents severe breakage.

2. Moisturizer: You will need to moisturize your hair at least once a day. Some can go every two days, but I think newly naturals should start off with once a day as they get adjusted and learn their hair type.

3. Washing: It's a little tricky to wash natural hair, as natural hair tends to get tangled a lot easier. To prevent my hair from tangling up as I wash it, I braid my hair into big braids before I wash my hair. I then wash my hair in the braids, and pay close attention to my scalp by massaging it thoroughly. After I wash my hair, I take the braids out and detangle. This can be achieved by using your fingers, or a comb like you would with the regular detangling process.

I also only wash my hair with shampoo once a month. I use co-washes the other times.

What is a co-wash you ask? A cowash is when you wash your hair with conditioner instead of using shampoo. It's the same process, and you rinse the conditioner just like you would the shampoo. This will keep your hair nice and soft.

4. The Deep Conditioner

To deep condition your natural hair, wash your hair, and apply a condtioner on your hair. Sit under the dryer (set it on cool), and let the conditioner sit for 15 minutes. While we all use different coditioners, I prefer to use Garnier, as others prefer Suave.





While this is great information for those new to natural hair, there is so much more information that you need to know about caring for natural hair. Just know that you will keep learning about your hair as you experiment with hair styles and various products. There are great blogs and videos out here to make your journey a much easier one.